Popular in Hawaii and throughout the South Pacific and Indian Oceans, outrigger canoe plans canoes combine the romance of the South Seas with a ruthless efficiency of design and breathtaking sailing performance.
This is the first book to outrigger canoe plans complete plans and building instructions for three outrigger sailing canoes. Based on traditional Hawaiian and Micronesian types, the designs are lightweight, easy to build, and screamingly fast. Author Gary Dierking shows you how to build these boats outrigger canoe plans stitch-and-glue and strip-planking construction, explains what tools and materials are required, how to rig and equip the boats, and.
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Whether you've loved the book or not, if you give your honest and detailed thoughts then people will find new books that are right for. Warren B. Princeton Architectural Press. Alanna StangChristopher Hawthorne. Free ebooks since You may Plywood Canoe Building Plans Usa be interested canke Powered by Rec2Me Most frequently terms hull sail ama plywood rig mast sailing canoe timber outrigger canoes epoxy boom glue strip steering stem shunting yard 98 ulua 94 mold 93 iako 90 tacking 89 spar 84 resin 80 foam 80 leeboard 79 deck 78 planks 75 bow outrigger canoe plans joint 73 panel 72 tack 72 panels 70 diameter 70 hollow 69 windward 67 gunwale 67 outrigger sailing 67 6mm outrigger canoe plans sailing canoes 66 aft 66 sanding 65 rudder 65 molds 64 oar 63 beam 62 leeward 61 planking 60 bulkhead 59 outrigger sailing canoes 57 lateen 56 plxns outrigger 54 building outrigger sailing 54 strips 53 hiking 53 rigs 53 aluminum 53 bulkheads 51 glued 50 0 comments Post a Review You can write outrigger canoe plans book review and share your experiences.
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But in the lulls the high wetted surface area makes the dinghy sticky, where the canoe will keep moving at much higher speeds while barely disturbing the water surface. Where a bit of heel starts a fight with the tiller to keep a sailing dinghy going straight the balanced volumes of the canoe ends means the boat just steers where you want to go. See the faster sections of this Viola 14 Video.
This has taught me something about hull volumes � it puts a big handling question mark over boats with excessively wide sterns. The lower drag also means that upwind you can reach Laser dinghy like speeds but definitely without the physical effort of sailing a Laser upwind in strong winds. The reason? Sailing canoes will go around a course with a Laser, or they will keep going when the bigger and heavier boats are having trouble.
The Viola sailing canoe is a very user friendly boat for teenagers through to experienced men and women sailors. It is stitch and glue construction. Our Beth Sailing Canoe does require a bit more sailing knowledge because of the narrower beam and bigger sail. The Beth plywood sailing canoe is built from self made prefabricated panels.
This is a trait of very modern dinghy shapes such as the 49er. They might not have the absolute speed of a fat sterned I14 but they are more controllable, so it is possible to push them much much harder than a wide stern boat.
Lighter than a racing dinghy for transport. Books Magazines Paul Fisher instruction manuals. Paint, Varnish, Primer Wood. Forgot your password? Blocks Sheaves Single Blocks. Sailcloth Tapes Thread Tools. Shop by Brand RaidBraid. You save.
Current Stock:. Quantity: Decrease Quantity: Increase Quantity:. Share This Article. It had a surprising turn of speed and was quite exciting to sail. Product Videos. Custom Field Measurements Metric.
Product Reviews. You May Also Like Recommended. Add to Cart. Choose Options. It was brilliant. We sat up straight and it was quick when paddled. It was great for looking at the coral reefs because calm was created between the outrigger and the hull.
Having a holiday retreat at Karitane just north of Dunedin, we considered his to be the perfect craft for the tidal estuary. But with not as many restaurants to visit. The shallow draft of the waka was a great combination for the numerous sand bars of the estuary. To build it, I concentrated on the advice of most waka ama advocates: that the canoe should be made of locally available materials, quick to assemble on the launching area and very cheap to make.
I did not work from plans but used a cardboard model that I made as a guide. The waka takes less than two minutes to assemble after we take it off its trolley. Materials My waka is made from two sheets of 7 mm-thick construction ply and almost one litre of polyurethane waterproof glue see Panel, Glue.
The timber was old house-framing timber that was going to be firewood. I had this idea of a box with a point at each end with seats to add strength. The basic box is mm wide and mm high. The middle part is mm long and then the ends are put on. To start, I built the middle part of the hull. The hull waka is from straight-cut strips of ply� mm-deep for the sides and a mm-wide piece for the hull bottom, leaving a mm-wide space from one side of the canoe to the other across the top between the coamings or gunwale and inwale.
The ply sides are joined to the hull bottom with shaped stringers running the length of the hull. I glued and screwed the stringers into place, later removing the screws and filling the holes.
I chose the stringers because of the cost of glue and fibreglass and wanted a classic appearance. But these seams could be stitched and taped. A temporary frame is screwed in place at each end a piece of customwood approximately 20 mm-thick, mm-wide at the top, sloping down mm at the sides to mm-wide at the bottom. No need for building moulds�the boat was being made on saw horses.
The craft is identical each end and can be paddled in either direction. I used left-over 10 mm-wide strips as joiner doublers at the ends, glued and held in place by temporary screwing while the glue dried. Tek screws are great because the built-in washer under the head holds the two bits of ply together very well. I removed and reused these after the glue dried. I put long cleats about mm below the top of the hull to support the 50 mm x 15 mm wooden seat slats.
Each seat slat was shaped differently and fitted individually. The seats are part of the hull strength and I screwed and glued them into place. When the glue had dried, I removed the screws and replaced them with dowels.
There are almost no metal parts on this boat other than the stainless hooks on the ama or outrigger for assembly and towing eyes. Doubler for joining is clamped while glue dries.
Seat slats are glued and screwed, then dowelled, to long cleats. Temporary customwood frame is screwed in place at each end. Ends The next sheet of ply has two mm-wide strips mm long cut from its length. Here is the cunning part of the hull that forms the style of the waka � each mm-wide strip is cut in half at the mm mark with a degree cut.
This cut defines the bow shape. If the cut is slightly concave, the bow, when fastened together, will have a clipper bow shape. If the cut is slightly convex, you will have a rounded bow shape. I prefer the classic sloping bow so made the cut at 45 degrees in a straight line. These bow pieces are glued onto the doublers at the end with the long side at the top, then screwed in place and the glue allowed to dry.
Then I pulled the bow strips together and cable-tied or wired the bow and glued it. If you decide on a clipper bow, that may require a bit more force to form the shape. While the bottom of the hull in the middle has been fixed, the bottom at the bow and stern needs to be installed.
I placed the middle hull with the empty bow shapes onto a piece of ply and marked the inside bow shape on the ply with a pencil.
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