As part of the ongoing education of the RC Yachting community, Bill Hagerup and myself have been collaborating to close the loop for you, so to speak, so you can skip the design process and go directly to printing and building a very competitive Footy. Bill has recently placed one of his very successful 3d printed Footy designs hull, keel and rudder on the web for download.
This then allows me to tell you how to print it, and to finalise the process, Bill describes how to build the little guys to competition standard. The reality is, in terms of 3d printing if you can learn your trade on a smaller yacht then the leap to larger ones later is not really that much different. The challenges are not necessarily technical but more psychological and your belief in yourself.
Image 1. Learn your craft with the Footy, then it is up to you if you wish to build bigger. Just to quickly summaries a few things that have emerged Aluminum Houseboat Hull For Sale 4g from the many emails I have received concerning 3d printing. Without a doubt, the interest is rising rapidly and many are seeing what Bill and I saw in this technology just a mere 18 months ago. Hint 1. Use PLA thermoplastic to learn with. Leave the other materials alone until you have mastered this very forgiving material.
Hint 2. Stay away from black PLA or really dark colours. They absorb infra-red much more rapidly and if left in the hot sun, like unpainted carbon fibre, can warp.
This is not a good look when you are in the middle of a regatta. Always cover you yachts with a towel anyway. So there is no advantage in using it at this stage. Hint 4. As you change the settings, do so one at a time please. Remember the old science lessons around the scientific method? Control the variables and change only one thing at a time.
Believe me, slower in general produces a much finer surface result and a slightly thicker hull is more serviceable for building and racing with. From what Bill tells me, a 45g Footy hull is just as competitive but more resilient Building A Houseboat On A Pontoon Red than an ultrathin 19g one. Yes, you can go that thin when you have found the sweet spot on your printer, but at some stage reality will win in your thinking.
The following is a set of steps I go through to make sure I have an excellent outcome. The printing is more of a spectator sport, the preparation is very important. As mentioned, spend the time to find the sweet spot on your printer otherwise you will be throwing hulls in the bin in disappointment.
Run short prints of say 2 inches 50mm from the stern or bow changing one setting at a time. Image 3. Test test test I did hundreds of tests which hopefully you will not have to do. Make sure your rails, wheels, bearings, trolleys, belts etc are all firm but not tight. The sweet spot means nothing if the head and nozzle are moving around outside the track during printing.
This is another reason to not speed up the printing. Let it all happen quietly and get on with your life while the printer does its job. Also, make sure the printer is on a very firm base. A desk where other things are happening is a disaster waiting to happen. How do you think I know all this? My first printer was set up on my rather wobbly office desk and every time I worked at the laptop I would get funny lines on the print.
It actually took me a while to wake up to what was causing the weird and irregular lines on the early hulls. The nozzle needs to be appropriate for the job.
During the printing the nozzle is kept hot and the PLA melted and forced very accurately under slight pressure through the tiny hole in the nozzle. So a nozzle of around 0. Check that the starting point for the nozzle is just above the base surface. A good gauge is to slide a sheet of normal printing paper between the base and the nozzle. If the nozzle is too high then adhesion of the PLA to the surface is poor allowing the object to lift. The initial preparation of the surface to help the thermoplastic stick is crucial.
I have tried all sorts of surface preparations and have gone back to the simplest of all: a clean glass sheet and a glue stick smear over the place the PLA needs to stick to.
I use a good quality flat paint scrapper to often scrap the surface clean. If you want a near perfect surface, then rub the surface with methylated spirits or water on a cloth. Most of the time I just scrap it clean and start the next job. The best glue stick for adhesion that I have found is the very commonly available Bostik Blu Stik found at most newsagents or office supplies.
This is actually the easy part. Orient the image on the platform so that there is a flat base attached to the platform. The Footy in this case can be printed from either the stern or the bow. Just a word of warning, when doing other hull designs make sure that there is no surface less than 45 degrees to the horizontal. Otherwise, they will not print very well. These are some essential settings for my style of printer but of course experiment with your own printer.
Primary layer height : 0. This should give you a strong, resilient hull with a race ready outside surface that needs no sanding or coating. Just construct and go racing, PLA is wonderful if left untouched on the outside. Finally, prepare the file for printing. The slicer program converts to g-code, a set of instructions directing the printer on how to construct the object..
Load the g-code file into your printer. I tend to use a sim card to transfer information to the printer rather than rely on USB cables. A very easy process described in one of the other articles on this page. You should be able to take it from here.
Good table adhesion becomes more important the thinner the base of the object. So prepare well. The steps in this process. Print the hull, keel and rudder. Image 2. Some hints and tips to start Just to quickly summaries a few things that have emerged from the many emails I have received concerning 3d printing.
Preparing the printer The following is a set of steps I go through to make sure I have an excellent outcome. Test test test I did hundreds of tests which hopefully you will not have to do Secondly.
Image 4. Surface preparation is essential Printing the hull This is actually the easy part. Image 5. Nozzle; 0. Try to cool the PLA down quickly. Image 6. This is what you are aiming for. Image 7. Load the STL file into your favourite free or purchased Simplify3d slicing program. Set your print parameters in this program. You may have to create multiple sections if the hull is too big or your printer is not big enough. No problem, just learn the sleeving process described in an earlier article or at the site mentioned above.
Have the slice program convert Model Ship Building Planking 001 the file to gcode so that the printer can read it and understand what needs to be done. Preferably save on a sim card or thumb drive to be inserted into the printer independent of the computer.
It is always fun to wake up to something you have created on your own printer. Good luck. End of article.
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